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3 Types of Suit

  • Off the rack
    • Pre-made suits that might need some alterations.
    • Made of cheaper material.
    • Machine made.
    • Doesn’t have a working cuff. The buttons don’t work, which is a sign of a well-made suit. 
      • Always leave one button undone when wearing a bespoke or made-to-measure suit. 
    • Usually don’t have working pockets, they are sewn shut. 

Tips on buying off the rack suits:

    • Must fit the shoulders perfectly.
    • Changing shoulder width is very difficult on a suit, make sure the shoulders fit appropriately and everything else can be changed.
    • Jacket is key. Make sure that you’re focused on the jacket size.
  • Made to measure
    • Great mid-range system. 
    • Mid to high range pricing.
    • There are pre-cut patterns to general body types, then the tailor would alter the patterns to your measurements. 
    • Usually takes 8 weeks. Allow additional 2 weeks for additional fittings. 
    • Allows full control on style, design, material, lining, buttons, pockets, stitching, and other details. 

Tips

    • Broader shoulder – thinner lapel width to not accentuate the broadness of the shoulder.
    • Thinner body type – wider lapel width to look a little broader. 
    • Classic navy suit – first suit that you want to own as a man.
    • Never button the bottom button on the waist coat. 
  • Bespoke 16.01
    • Can be extremely expensive but you have full control.
    • The word “bespoke” came from the suiting/tailoring word. The word bespoke is most known for its “centuries-old relationship” with tailor-made suits.
    • The tailor measures every aspect of you. The pattern is not pre-made making it fit even better. Everything is made for you. 
    • Access of exotic materials, buttons, threads, linings and very customized options. 
    • The ultimate for a man to have a full bespoke suit. No other suit in the world is gonna be like it. It would fit like a glove. 
    • Prepare for multiple fittings. It can take 6 months to a year. Or up to 5 years.
    • Hand made. 
    • Full control.
    • Costs between $20-50,000.
    • Price ranges of some popular tailors
      • Brioni Vanquish II Suit – US$45,000
      • Kiton K50 – US$60,000
      • Alexander Amosu Vanquish Bespoke Suit – US$100,000